Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau
(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip
(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych
(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard
(00:15:22) – Sleep
(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson
(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?
(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles
(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles
(00:27:34) – Deloads
(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body
(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead
(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs
(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”
(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor
(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing
(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips
(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12
(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15
(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage
(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica
(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?
(01:14:14) – Training on the replica
(01:22:21) – How to train on your project
(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?
(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip
(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles
(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?
(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?
(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17
(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit
(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar
(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps
(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit
(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders
(01:59:08) – Imposing demands
(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film!
Announcing Merch!
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
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