Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story
20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner
24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health
29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo
30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching
32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)
37:06 – Neely’s diet
39:06 – Chocolate
40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food
44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)
47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?
50:34 – Probiotics
53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program
55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog
56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success
1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing
1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit
1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast
1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content
1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls
1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery
1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves
1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information
1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough
1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective
1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions
1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette
1:28:36 – Children vs. house
1:29:26 – Kids
1:32:36 – Willa and projecting
1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?
1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge
1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag
1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams
1:39:56 – Gratitude
1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
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