Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
Support the Podcast:
thenuggetclimbing.com/support
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story
20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner
24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health
29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo
30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching
32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)
37:06 – Neely’s diet
39:06 – Chocolate
40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food
44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)
47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?
50:34 – Probiotics
53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program
55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog
56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success
1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing
1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit
1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast
1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content
1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls
1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery
1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves
1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information
1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough
1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective
1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions
1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette
1:28:36 – Children vs. house
1:29:26 – Kids
1:32:36 – Willa and projecting
1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?
1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge
1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag
1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams
1:39:56 – Gratitude
1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
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