Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
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Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story
20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner
24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health
29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo
30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching
32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)
37:06 – Neely’s diet
39:06 – Chocolate
40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food
44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)
47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?
50:34 – Probiotics
53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program
55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog
56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success
1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing
1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit
1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast
1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content
1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls
1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery
1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves
1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information
1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough
1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective
1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions
1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette
1:28:36 – Children vs. house
1:29:26 – Kids
1:32:36 – Willa and projecting
1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?
1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge
1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag
1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams
1:39:56 – Gratitude
1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
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