Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
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Watch the Video Interview:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:28) – Topics covered
(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics
(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries
(00:16:21) – Stress shielding
(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries
(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position
(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers
(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises
(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis
(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important
(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints
(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?
(01:09:18) – Playing the long game
(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli
(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow
(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow
(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions
(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries
(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues
(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
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