Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Watch the Video Interview:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Check out KAYA!
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!
Check out Crimpd!
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Check out Tindeq!
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:28) – Topics covered
(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics
(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries
(00:16:21) – Stress shielding
(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries
(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position
(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers
(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises
(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis
(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important
(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints
(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?
(01:09:18) – Playing the long game
(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli
(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow
(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow
(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions
(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries
(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues
(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
Create your
podcast in
minutes
It is Free
The MeatEater Podcast
Bear Grease
Live Wild with Remi Warren
Outside Podcast
Cal’s Week in Review