Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!
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Watch the Video Interview:
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:28) – Topics covered
(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio
(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics
(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries
(00:16:21) – Stress shielding
(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries
(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries
(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos
(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position
(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers
(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception
(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises
(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis
(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis
(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age
(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important
(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints
(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?
(01:09:18) – Playing the long game
(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli
(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises
(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow
(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow
(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions
(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries
(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)
(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues
(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis
(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured
(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
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