Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!
Jon’s Original Episode:
EP 50: Jon Cardwell
References:
Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette’ 9a+
EP 169: Scott Johnston
Training for the Uphill Athlete (book)
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b (9b)
(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success
(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette’ 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it
(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra’s flash of ‘Super Crackinette’
(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston, and training for ‘Wind Up Bird’
(00:35:53) – Constantly learning
(00:40:42) – More about his training
(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum
(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension
(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation
(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing
(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?
(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM
(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird’?
(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?
(01:07:12) – Wrap up
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
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