Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brooke-raboutou
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:35) – The first podcast in my cabin, and Brooke’s two-a-day training
(00:04:03) – Why college felt so important, and balancing climbing with other interests
(00:07:45) – Studying marketing and psychology
(00:10:38) – Climbing as a lifetime sport, and pivoting within climbing
(00:14:05) – Brooke’s family and upbringing, and balancing college with Olympic training
(00:21:34) – Her parents starting ABC climbing, and what it was like having her mom as a coach
(00:24:42) – What felt better: winning her first World Cup gold medal, or sending Box Therapy?
(00:27:55) – Training for the Olympics, and her hype music for speed climbing
(00:32:20) – Brooke’s favorite music
(00:37:20) – Wanting to win while supporting your friends and teammates
(00:44:17) – The mechanics of qualifying for the Olympics, and Brooke’s mindset for Paris
(00:50:09) – How much longer will Brooke focus on competitions?
(00:51:20) – Working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, and focusing on the big picture
(00:57:11) – The purpose we get from having a goal, and Brooke’s goal to mix psychology and climbing
(01:01:41) – Brooke’s mindset approaching competitions
(01:06:34) – Balancing fun and focus, different competitors' mindsets, and channeling good energy
(01:10:15) – Meditation and breath
(01:18:10) – Using her flexibility as a shorter climber, and growing up in gymnastics at CATS
(01:23:52) – Dancing on the wall for her warmup
(01:25:46) – How to use more flexibility in your climbing
(01:26:45) – How did Brooke become so strong in 3F drag?
(01:31:14) – Short pinkies and crooked fingers
(01:31:53) – Working with her coach Chris Danielson
(01:39:09) – Does Brooke train specifically for outdoor goals?
(01:41:19) – How outdoor climbing feeds back into competitions
(01:43:54) – More about Brooke’s training
(01:46:06) – Why Brooke switched from one-arm hangs to weighted two-arm hangs, and using the hangboard for injury prevention
(01:47:51) – Working on jumps and leg power, coordination, and mental game
(01:49:08) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting
Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)
EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’
EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
A Call from Ethan
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
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