The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
How to use data and measurements to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst Kris and the other Power Company coaches for years. That is until today’s guest, Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Dale and Kris chat about how and why Power Company Climbing collects certain measurements from their clients. They discuss the usefulness of these measurements in predicting climbing performance and how this data can be helpful to coaches when designing programming. They also talk about how important it is not to get too wrapped up in the numbers, and how easily many climbers fall into the trap of training to improve numbers rather than to reach their goals.
DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE:How Power Company Climbing uses data and measurements in their program design.
How Kris and Dale personally use data in their own climbing and training.
Which measurements seem to “matter” - and which don’t.
The downside of putting too much stock in numbers.
Learn more about Metrics for Climbers from Dale.
See the charts and tables we've compiled based on our ever-growing data set.
Let Dale crunch the numbers for you with our Mini-Assessment + Analysis.
Check out the newest course from the Power Company Climbing Academy, Coaching for Mastery, available now!
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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin
REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb
Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It
BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right
Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History
TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art
WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes
BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic
REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity
TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong
CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders
TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips
REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations
The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics
REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends
REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams
BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift
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