The Power Company Climbing Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
How to use data and measurements to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst Kris and the other Power Company coaches for years. That is until today’s guest, Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Dale and Kris chat about how and why Power Company Climbing collects certain measurements from their clients. They discuss the usefulness of these measurements in predicting climbing performance and how this data can be helpful to coaches when designing programming. They also talk about how important it is not to get too wrapped up in the numbers, and how easily many climbers fall into the trap of training to improve numbers rather than to reach their goals.
DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE:How Power Company Climbing uses data and measurements in their program design.
How Kris and Dale personally use data in their own climbing and training.
Which measurements seem to “matter” - and which don’t.
The downside of putting too much stock in numbers.
Learn more about Metrics for Climbers from Dale.
See the charts and tables we've compiled based on our ever-growing data set.
Let Dale crunch the numbers for you with our Mini-Assessment + Analysis.
Check out the newest course from the Power Company Climbing Academy, Coaching for Mastery, available now!
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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
FOCUS Q&A 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
TAPED TIPS | 5 Simple Ways to Climb Harder
FOCUS Q&A 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate
TAPED TIPS | How To Climb Taller AND Smaller
REWIND | Can We Accurately Measure the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
EVERY BODY CLIMBS | Ben Mayforth on Discipline, Paraclimbing World Championships, and Letting Go
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves
(BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions
TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable
REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)
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