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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Sports:Wilderness

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

2023-04-19
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A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer."

Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out in my interview with him, but everything else Sam said about Thomas was spot on, and I was psyched to reach out to him for an interview.

Thomas is a 36-year-old emergency medicine physician and father of 3 children from Louisville, KY who's been climbing for around 20 years. After talking to him for a while, I realized he is SUPER scientific about everything he does in climbing. This is no surprise because he's quite an overachiever in his academic/professional life as well. 

He's published a bunch of academic papers, he was chief resident at the University of Louisville Department of Emergency Medicine a while back, and WHILE he was doing that, he started a medical device company, Inscope Medical, and was VP of Innovations. He also completed an IronMan while he was an intern resident.

So he's an ambitious person, to say the least, and that means he has less time than some of us for climbing and training. 

Only getting outside climbing around 10-15 days per year, and focusing all of that time on very hard projects, he has learned that his training and all of his days outside have to be hyperfocused and specific.

He takes us through his training program, including how he trains aerobic capacity, power, power endurance, and strength. He also talks about his research (he's also a researcher!) on the use of a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) to figure out what food fuels him best, and at what times of day.

He's currently doing some experimentation with Sam Elias with a CGM, and Thomas and I talked about having a part 2 to this discussion to go more in-depth about that and how he uses other monitors like the Whoop in his every day life and training. More to come on that, though.

This interview and our talk afterward actually inspired me to get a Whoop myself (no affiliation, but check it out if you're interested in biodata).

Oh, and we also talked about how he rehabbed not one but two pulley ruptures and came back stronger afterward.

I loved this talk - it was super inspirational on all levels - and I hope we hear a LOT more from Thomas in the coming years. He will be an asset to the climbing community to take us to the next level in training scientifically, like so many other mainstream sports have already done.

view more

More Episodes

TBP 289: Climbing Training Success Story - How Doug Hartman Climbed His 1st 5.13a at 46
2025-05-28 4.7k
TBP 288: Climbing Training Success Story Using Nutrition and Weightlifting
2025-05-14 4.7k
TBP 287: Trip Report and Lessons Learned from Matt’s Climbing Trip to Margalef
2025-04-30 3.7k
TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson
2025-04-09 6.3k
TBP 285: Climbing Training Success Story - From 10a to 12a in 3 Months
2025-03-26 5.1k
TBP 284: Overcoming Mindset Hurdles in Projecting with Sport Psychologist Madeleine Crane
2025-03-12 4.7k
TBP 283: Using Mindfulness to Overcome Fear and Anxiety in Climbing - Alex Bridgewater
2025-02-26 5.4k
TBP 282: How Steve Bechtel’s Training Philosophies Have Changed in the Last Decade
2025-02-12 6.1k
TBP 281 :: How to Gain Financial Freedom So You Can Climb More - Meghan Walker
2025-01-29 5.4k
TBP 280: Lessons Alex and Neely Learned about Climbing in 2024
2025-01-09 5.0k
TBP 279: Overcoming Fear of Climbing Above Bolt - A Mindset Coaching Session
2024-12-18 5.8k
TBP 278: Using Zen Philosophy for Performance Anxiety, Fear, and Grief with Francis Sanzaro
2024-12-04 5.5k
TBP 277: Climbing Sessions to Train Power Endurance, Endurance, and Strength
2024-11-12 7.9k
TBP 276: Ashley Hardy on Climbing 5.13c with No Gym, No Training, & a Full-Time Job
2024-10-23 6.1k
TPB 275: Fundamentals of Strength Training for Climbing with Matt Pincus
2024-10-16 7.5k
TBP 274: Dr. Stacy Sims on Climbing Training and Nutrition for Aging Women
2024-10-01 7.4k
TBP 273: Route Projecting Tactics for an Efficient Sending Season
2024-09-18 4.4k
TBP 272: Charlie Schreiber Coaches Me on My Climbing and Training
2024-09-04 4.8k
TBP 271: How to Get Out of a Motivational Slump - Coach Alex Stiger
2024-08-29 3.9k
TBP 270: Sport Psychology Coach on How to Foster a Growth Mindset in Youth and Adult Climbers
2024-08-21 6.0k
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