Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle
Nuggets:
0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa
0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL
0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like
0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip
0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions
0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting
0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal
0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?
0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday
0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up
0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition
0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering
0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet
0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals
0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training
0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)
0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet
0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles
1:00:45 – Jazz
1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility
1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?
1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing
1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training
1:13:58 – Micro edge training
1:15:39 – Contact strength training
1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods
1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?
1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries
1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)
1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?
1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco
1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?
1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)
1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?
1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?
1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from
1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work
1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?
1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places
1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?
1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships
1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics
1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process
1:53:10 – Be present
1:54:39 – Wrap up
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
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