Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returns
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel
0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged
0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 2017
0:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea
0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel
0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show
0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food
0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals
0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway
0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite
0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions
0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite
0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite
0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals
0:57:10 – Try hard
0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)
0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide
1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower
1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering
1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing
1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash
1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan
1:22:02 – Tough gainer
1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?
1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start
1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt
1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with
1:32:47 – Wrap up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
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