Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returns
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel
0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged
0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 2017
0:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea
0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel
0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show
0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food
0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals
0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway
0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite
0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions
0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite
0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite
0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals
0:57:10 – Try hard
0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)
0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide
1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower
1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering
1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing
1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash
1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan
1:22:02 – Tough gainer
1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?
1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start
1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt
1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with
1:32:47 – Wrap up
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
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