Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returns
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel
0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged
0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 2017
0:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea
0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel
0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show
0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food
0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals
0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway
0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite
0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions
0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite
0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite
0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals
0:57:10 – Try hard
0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)
0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide
1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower
1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering
1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing
1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash
1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan
1:22:02 – Tough gainer
1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?
1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start
1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt
1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with
1:32:47 – Wrap up
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
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