Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, his top cooking tips and the key to making delicious food, how he prepared to send Kryptonite 9a, and his ascent along with teammates Jesse Huey and Jordan Cannon of the famous Todd Skinner route ‘Cowboy Direct’ on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal-returns
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:06:37 – Jet lag and a whirlwind of travel
0:08:14 – What Matt has been in the three years since our last episode, his FA on Mt Hooker with Jesse Huey, and getting engaged
0:11:38 – Short recap of Matt’s paragliding accident in 2017
0:12:15 – Matt’s new YouTube channel, his magazine Brine, and his traveling + climbing + cooking idea
0:15:05 – Getting deeper into cooking during the pandemic, and the vision for the YouTube channel
0:18:44 – Upcoming guests on Matt’s channel, and my impression of the show
0:22:16 – Matt’s #1 cooking tip, and the key to making delicious food
0:27:40 – Matt’s go-to meals
0:29:56 – Balancing nutrition with his love for cooking and enjoying life, traveling with his portable Traeger Grill, and his YouTube giveaway
0:32:52 – Why Matt added protein shakes to his routine when he was trying Kryptonite
0:37:23 – How Matt eats when he travels internationally, and his go-to bars for expeditions
0:40:37 – Wanting to climb 9a, and what he learned from trying Kryptonite
0:46:18 – His fiance’s accident at The Fortress the day he sent Kryptonite
0:51:38 – Matt’s training leading up to trying Kryptonite, and setting mini-sub-goals
0:57:10 – Try hard
0:58:31 – The difference between sport climbing and hard dangerous trad climbing (headpointing)
0:59:17 – Cutting edge trad routes worldwide
1:01:05 – Going to Pakistan to try the famous route Cowboy Direct on Nameless Tower
1:06:47 – What it feels like to climb 5.12 and 5.13 at 20,000 feet, the logistics involved to prep the route, and necessary suffering
1:13:55 – How Matt felt after coming back from Pakistan, pivoting to hard trad, and moving away from dangerous climbing
1:16:53 – Closing this chapter for Micah Dash
1:20:18 – Astrisks in big wall and alpine climbing, the bond created between Matt, Jesse, and Jordan
1:22:02 – Tough gainer
1:25:23 – Patron question from Connor: Any cool Micah Dash stories?
1:27:55 – New products from Alpine Start
1:29:50 – Upcoming stuff for Matt
1:31:02 – The enjoyment of food and what that means, and being more deliberate about who you spend your time with
1:32:47 – Wrap up
Announcing Merch!
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
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