Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:05:18) – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland
(00:07:56) – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for
(00:10:53) – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield
(00:12:17) – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated
(00:15:38) – Mutation continuing to go unrepeated again after Will did it
(00:17:23) – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)
(00:20:07) – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed
(00:23:32) – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden
(00:25:10) – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move
(00:30:16) – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica
(00:33:45) – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session
(00:36:26) – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden
(00:41:12) – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta
(00:46:17) – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder
(00:51:28) – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send
(00:54:48) – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder
(00:57:33) – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move
(00:58:53) – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots
(01:08:50) – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?
(01:12:03) – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed
(01:15:35) – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger
(01:26:27) – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard
(01:30:57) – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?
(01:34:21) – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b
(01:38:24) – Bigger edge training vs. micros
(01:40:52) – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity
(01:46:28) – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)
(01:49:10) – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur
(01:52:21) – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer
(01:53:59) – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a
(01:55:13) – Being more thoughtful about your climbing
(01:57:17) – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden
(01:58:22) – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
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