Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameron
Nuggets:
0:06:31 – What they climbed on today
0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 2020
0:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering
0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering
0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew
0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days
0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d
0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d
0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?
0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder
0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?
0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US
0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion
0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’
0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?
0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up
0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)
1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?
1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up
1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers
1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?
1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch
1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)
1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering
1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles
1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering
1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?
1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip
1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career
2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V18
2:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s
2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave
2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career
2:17:33 – Flow state
2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing
2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
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