Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameron
Nuggets:
0:06:31 – What they climbed on today
0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 2020
0:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering
0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering
0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew
0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days
0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d
0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d
0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?
0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder
0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?
0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US
0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion
0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’
0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?
0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up
0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)
1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?
1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up
1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers
1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?
1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch
1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)
1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering
1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles
1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering
1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?
1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip
1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career
2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V18
2:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s
2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave
2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career
2:17:33 – Flow state
2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing
2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
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