Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyliger
Nuggets:
0:06:01 – Camping iterations
0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction
0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story
0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking
0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends
0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy
0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics
0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment
0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing
0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff
0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance
0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel
0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work
0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused
1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis
1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope
1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset
1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel
1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling
1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco
1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year
1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength
1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule
1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity
1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice
1:38:27 – The eyeball story
1:58:16 – Spain
2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace
2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love
2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business
2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)
2:19:56 – How to find a good PT
2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing
2:29:35 – Wrap up
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
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