Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.
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Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn
Nuggets:
2:30 – The other side of the mic
4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing
7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music
10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world
11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought
12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming
16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story
20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner
24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health
29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo
30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching
32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)
37:06 – Neely’s diet
39:06 – Chocolate
40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food
44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)
47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?
50:34 – Probiotics
53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program
55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog
56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success
1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing
1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit
1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast
1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content
1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls
1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery
1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves
1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information
1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough
1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective
1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions
1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette
1:28:36 – Children vs. house
1:29:26 – Kids
1:32:36 – Willa and projecting
1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?
1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge
1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag
1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams
1:39:56 – Gratitude
1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
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