The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
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