The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols
TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst
TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals
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