The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a
TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan
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