The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on Navigating Training Options if You're in a Plateau
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt
TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing
TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
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