The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
Sports:Wilderness
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.
There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:
We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you’re a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!
I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.
TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition
TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition Needs
TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
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